Naga Loin loom Weaving

Nagaland in North-East India is home to 16 primary clans and a few sub-clans, each recognized by their customs, dresses and vernacular languages. The emblematic dresses of each clan is an important identifier of the family and town of the wearer, with some designs created to celebrate particular events.

The striking unmistakable geometric weaves and themes revealed the details of the wearer in the tribal system; for this reason, the patterns and hues were worn by warriors who had an expansive record of accomplishment. In fact, in earlier times, weaving, turning the cotton yarn and colouring was viewed as a fundamental perquisite for an eligible young woman.

Interestingly, the portable Naga loin loom has a back strap with a continuous horizontal warp. The kotong (its six sticks) functions as the warp beam. It is fastened to the wall of the house by loops that are set at a distance equal to the breadth of the cloth to be woven. The lower cloth beam is notched at either end and attached to the aphi (weaving belt), which is strapped to the small of the back, thus retaining the tension on the warp. The woven cloth tends to have a ribbed texture. As the width is relatively narrow, two to three pieces are generally stitched together to make a larger fabric.