Konglan

Konghlan boots stand out in the bustling markets of Darjeeling and Kalimpong, where their vivid colors and robust construction catch the eye of locals and travelers alike. These knee-length, high-flanked boots are a traditional craft of the northern hills of West Bengal, designed to endure the region’s cold, rugged terrain. Known for their thick leather soles and high, layered sides made from leather, thick cloth, or a mix of both, Konghlan boots are a practical yet distinctive part of the region’s material culture.

The origins of Konghlan boots are closely tied to the Bhutia community and Tibetan settlers in the Kalimpong hills, as well as to the broader Himalayan border cultures. Historically, these boots served a crucial role for herders and travelers, providing essential protection and warmth during long journeys through mountainous landscapes. The Bhutias and Tibetans, who often traversed challenging paths while tending livestock or trading, relied on these boots for daily use. Over time, Konghlan boots also became associated with special occasions, particularly among Bhutanese and Tibetan communities, where they are worn during religious festivals and ceremonies.

Crafting Konghlan boots involves a blend of traditional materials and techniques. Artisans primarily use sheep and yak leather for durability, along with heavy woolen cloth and the prized local silken fabric known as ‘khochen.’ The upper part of the boots often features intricate silk thread embroidery on brocade pieces, sometimes sourced from China, adding both color and cultural symbolism. The boots are assembled with hand-braided belts that secure the open upper portion, while the inner lining is typically fur for added insulation. Every pair is made to be ambidextrous, allowing the wearer to use either boot on either foot, a practical design for daily life in the hills.

Today, the craft of making Konghlan boots endures among Bhutia shoemakers in and around Kalimpong, as well as in Tibetan Refugee Centres. While the boots remain popular for everyday wear in the region, they have also gained recognition as ceremonial footwear for Bhutanese and Tibetan festivals. 

Konghlan boots are distinguished by their combination of practical construction and vibrant aesthetics. The use of local leathers, wool, and silks, along with detailed hand-stitching and embroidery, sets them apart from other Indian traditional footwear. Their ambidextrous design and adaptability to harsh climates make them unique among regional crafts.