Kolhapuri chappal

Kolhapuri chappals from Kolhapur, Maharashtra, are a hallmark of Indian handmade footwear, known for their open-toed, T-strap design and detailed leatherwork. Crafted almost entirely by hand, these sandals use locally sourced leather and natural vegetable dyes, reflecting a tradition that has thrived in the region for centuries.

The craft traces its roots to the 12th century, when local rulers and the Lingayat cobbler communities developed sturdy, dignified footwear for everyday use. Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj of Kolhapur played a pivotal role in the early 20th century by supporting tanning centers and promoting the craft, which soon spread across Maharashtra and Karnataka. Each village in these regions developed its own style, and the chappals became a symbol of regional identity and craftsmanship.

Artisans begin by selecting high-quality buffalo or cowhide, which they tan using vegetable dyes derived from local plants. The leather is softened, cut, and shaped with traditional hand tools. Distinctive features such as braided straps, intricate cutwork, and decorative punches are added by hand, with women often handling the finishing touches. Some chappals include seeds between the soles to create a unique sound when walking, and the entire process can take several days depending on the complexity.

Today, Kolhapuri chappal making continues in artisan families across Kolhapur, Sangli, Satara, and Solapur in Maharashtra, as well as Belgaum and Dharwad in Karnataka. Despite the craft’s GI tag recognition in 2019, artisans face challenges from machine-made competition, changing leather supplies, and limited interest among younger generations. Collaborations with research institutes and new design adaptations are helping to sustain the tradition and reach new markets.

Kolhapuri chappals are valued for their durability, breathability, and ability to mold to the wearer’s feet. Each pair is unique to the artisan and the village of origin, and the GI tag protects the authenticity of the craft. The chappals are both practical and fashionable, maintaining a strong presence in Indian and international markets.

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