Khatwa

Waste becomes art in the hands of Bihar’s Khatwa artisans, who transform discarded fabric into vivid stories stitched onto cloth. Khatwa, a traditional Indian craft from Bihar and Jharkhand, centers on appliqué work—cutting shapes from one fabric and stitching them onto a base, often enhanced with chain and straight stitch embroidery. Historically, Khatwa’s reverse appliqué technique involved layering cloth, making incisions in the top layer, folding and stitching them down to reveal patterns with the contrasting base color. Motifs range from geometric forms to scenes inspired by nature and daily life, with each cut and stitch narrating a unique visual tale.

The origins of Khatwa trace back centuries, with the craft flourishing under royal patronage in Bihar. It was traditionally used to create elaborate tents (kanats), canopies (shamianas), and ceremonial textiles for kings and nobility. Communities in Patna, Sitamarhi, and Madhubani became known for their expertise, with men typically drawing and cutting the patterns, and women executing the intricate stitching. Over time, Khatwa became a vital part of rural women’s cultural and economic lives, especially as royal demand waned and the craft adapted to household and community needs.

Khatwa’s process begins with recycled or naturally dyed cloth—often tussar silk or cotton—used as both base and appliqué material. Artisans sketch the design on both layers, cut the top fabric into motifs, and fold and stitch the edges to the base, revealing sharp, contrasting patterns. Embroidery, usually in running or chain stitch with silk thread, adds linear detail and texture. The craft’s hallmark is its resourcefulness: artisans use waste or surplus cloth, and the color palette has evolved from vibrant reds and oranges with white appliqué to today’s preference for earth tones and muted shades.

The craft has expanded beyond ceremonial tents to include saris, dupattas, kurtas, wall hangings, cushion covers, and bags. Contemporary Khatwa often features narrative scenes from social life and graphic commentary on issues such as women’s rights and health, reflecting the artisans’ lived experiences. 

What sets Khatwa apart is its combination of appliqué and embroidery, its use of recycled materials, and its ability to adapt motifs and stories for modern contexts. The craft received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2015, recognizing its regional authenticity and helping artisans secure better market access. Khatwa’s eco-friendly approach and narrative style give it a unique position in the Indian textile market, appealing to both heritage enthusiasts and conscious consumers.
Photo courtesy: MAP Academy