Gabba

Gabba-embroidered rugs from Kashmir turn the region’s harsh winters into an opportunity for creativity and warmth. These distinctive floor coverings, known locally as gabba, are made by repurposing old woollen blankets and waste cloth, transforming household textiles into vibrant, functional art. Gabba rugs are widely used in Kashmiri homes as carpets, prayer rugs, mattresses, and even as wedding gifts, prized for their warmth and colorful designs.

The tradition of gabba-making is centuries old, with historical references dating back to the late 16th century in Kashmir and neighboring regions such as Poonch. The craft is closely associated with Kashmiri women, who developed the technique as a way to extend the life of worn textiles during long winters. Over time, the motifs and methods have remained remarkably consistent, often passed down through generations within artisan families. Production clusters are concentrated in Anantnag and Srinagar districts, with some presence in Jammu and Punjab due to migration and demand.

The process begins with collecting old woollen blankets or lois, which are thoroughly washed, milled, and dyed in bright colors. Milling, similar to felting, involves carding and washing the wool with warm soapy water, resulting in a dense, soft, and warm base fabric. Several layers of this recycled wool and cotton are stitched together, then covered with a top layer of cloth. The surface is decorated using either appliqué or embroidery, typically executed with an ari (hooked needle) and wool or silk threads. Chain stitch embroidery holds the layers together and creates intricate patterns. Common designs feature central medallions, borders, and motifs inspired by Kashmir’s natural scenery—floral, geometric, and animal forms dominate the visual language. Each gabba can take up to two weeks to embroider, depending on complexity.

Today, gabba rugs are still produced by artisans in Kashmir, though some now use new materials to improve durability and appeal to broader markets. While mass-produced textiles with gabba-inspired designs have emerged, authentic handmade gabbas remain a staple in local homes and are increasingly sought after by collectors and designers for their aesthetic and functional value. Artisan cooperatives and small workshops continue to sustain the tradition, adapting patterns and colors for contemporary tastes while preserving core techniques.

Photo courtesy: The Shanti Home